Perhaps you have noticed that the 2004 Sauvignon Blancs are
hitting the market. Depending upon where they are from, some are
being touted as being the result of one of the all-time great
vintages in years. So what makes a Sauvignon Blanc stand out
from one year to the next?
Most great winemakers will tell you that a wine is made in the
vineyard.
In other words, you can't turn bad grapes into a great wine. To
get the best grapes, a winemaker will put a lot of work and
experience into massaging the grapes to their optimum flavor.
Irrigation, canopy management, thinning and careful timing are
major factors. The name Sauvignon comes from the French word
sauvage, which means wild, and wild is what the vines quickly
become without careful management.
What else is needed? Well, you'll need to be in the right place
with your vineyard. The soil and micro-climate will put a stamp
on your wine that's often referred to as "terroir".
All great wines are terroir wines. Without the terroir
influence, even an otherwise beautiful wine is nothing really.
Why? Because the beauty of what the grape can do is replaceable
from region to region, but no one can mimic terroir. It's
unique. It is character as opposed to looks. The movie star
compared to the swimsuit model. Great Sauvignon Blanc wines come
primarily from the Loire region of France (Sancerre and Pouilly
Fume), the Styrian region of Austria, New Zealand, South Africa
and California. However, it is when the influence of terroir
comes into play that each region crafts the best of what can be
made. A Sancerre Sauvignon done right will never be mistaken for
one from New Zealand.
Next to terroir, the winemaker's philosophy and taste play a
major role. He will craft a wine accordingly, employing
different vinification methods to create the desired balance
between sweetness, acidity, alcohol, tannins as well as primary
and secondary fruit flavors.
For the famous Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc of New Zealand,
"ultra-reductive vinification" is used. This means that the wine
is made in a way such that it is exposed to as little oxygen
during the process as possible. The result is a wine whose
fruitiness almost jumps out at you from the glass: big bold
notes of blackcurrant bud, the note most typical for this grape,
announce themselves right up front. This process also results in
wines that are not meant for long term
cellaring, so drink them
while they are still young and fresh.
In the Styrian region of Austria, a process of reductive (not
ultra-reductive) vinification is used for the line of wines
called Classic. The result is again wines that are very
fruit-forward (though not as full-throttle as those from New
Zealand), fresh, and meant to be enjoyed while still young. Two
excellent examples to seek out would be the Sabathi Classic and
the Jaunegg Classic.
The great single vineyard Sauvignon Blancs from Austria, such as
those from the Poharnig, Possnitzberg and Czamillonberg
vineyards, are crafted more like those from the Loire region of
France, using an oxidative vinification process; that is,
allowing the wine to come in contact with more oxygen during
fermentation. The wines are then aged in oak barrels of varying
size, which also greatly influences the final result: wines that
are fuller bodied, with more mineral, hay or herbal notes and
less fruit, but with great structure and depth and longer cellar
potential.
Last but not least a vintage will leave its mark on a wine. Hot
and dry or cool and wet, a year's climatic conditions influence
the grapes balance of acid, sugar and extracts. So what about
these 2004's?
In 2004 Austrian winemakers were lucky to see many of the
climatic factors work in their favor, but they had to be on top
of the grapes to not miss the boat. The diligent vintner who
timed things just right was able to get that terroir into the
glass, and the best examples are seriously exceptional wines. In
the Loire region of France, 2004 brought wines that were very
typical for the area. The Sancerre Sauvignon Blancs are bright
and crisp, while those from the Pouilly-Fume appellation across
the river are creamier, but still showing a bolt of acidity. New
Zealand enjoyed a bumper crop of fruit that shows clean,
well-balanced and strong flavors.
Now is the time to hunt down some bottles from this vintage.
Find some Classic Austrian or New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs to
enjoy right now, and buy some single vineyard or French examples
to put down in your cellar. You will not be disappointed.
About the author:
Emily Schindler is a wine importer based in Los Angeles. To read
more of her wine writing, or to find the wines she imports and
sells direct to consumers, visit http://www.winemonger.com
Written by: Emily Schindler
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